One fine day, while browsing through Instagram, I saw a
sponsored ad about the Ziro music festival. And in less than a month from that
click bait, I found myself travelling for the very first time to North east of
India, for my very first camping trip, the very first time I was carrying a
back pack, and the very first time I was attending stay on site Music festival.
Ziro, is a village in the valleys of Arunachal Pradesh . To
get there one must reach Guwahati, then take an overnight train to Nagarlagun (
train leaves Guwahati at 9 pm and reaches Nagarlagun at around 5 am) and then a
5-6 hour journey along bumpy winding roads through hills and valleys, until you
see fields of golden rice fields ready for harvesting.
Bumpy roads, picturesque views . Nagalagun to Ziro |
The very first glimpse of Ziro; breathtaking. |
The Music festival itself is an open air music festival,
with a day stage and a night stage. The day stage begins at 2 in the afternoon,
but you have local talents who perform through the morning from 11 am onwards.
The night stage begins at 6 pm and goes on till around 10 pm or slightly later.
Once you reach Ziro , you have three stay options of stay .
Hotels, of which I noticed the Ziro Palace Inn was the closest , situated a
mere 4 minutes from the festival venue. The second is homestays, of which there
are few but I met some fun , feisty and enterprising young Arunachali girls and
boys, who I hope can change the Homestay scene in years to come. And the third,
most popular stay option is camping. In camping too, you can choose to pitch your
own tent, the PYOT area is again 5 minutes from the festival venue, you can
watch the stage from your tent ! or for newbies like me, you can opt for pre
organised camping experience . ours was called Experience destination.
Life is nothing if not a series of adventures. |
The first timers guide to backpacking.
Soon after I
booked our trip to Ziro, i realised I had never packed a back pack before. I
read a lot of blogs on how to pack a back pack, what to pack for a camping trip
, how to hoist a backpack on your back, and how to take off a backpack without
injuring yourself. I decided to do some back strengthening exercises for
added measure, I mean to carry all that weight on your shoulders !
So here's
what I learnt .
1. Along
with back exercises, do some core strengthening workout.
2. This
particular blog was very helpful on how to pack a back so as to have the centre
of gravity right in the centre of the backpack. CLICK HERE
and can I add my two camping essentials - a battery charged power bank , and micellar water ( i didnt need to wash my face for 7 days. micellar water has micelles suspended in soft water, and removes dust, grime, makeup, and keeps skin 90 % hydrated without any facewash or rinsing! save water guys, also if its good enough for the french it's good for you. It doesnt cost much google it)
and can I add my two camping essentials - a battery charged power bank , and micellar water ( i didnt need to wash my face for 7 days. micellar water has micelles suspended in soft water, and removes dust, grime, makeup, and keeps skin 90 % hydrated without any facewash or rinsing! save water guys, also if its good enough for the french it's good for you. It doesnt cost much google it)
3. Having
been to Ziro, i can attest, carrying a backpack is not a hundred percent
necessary. You aren’t really required to hike with your backpack. The journey
is from Guwahati airport to Guwahati railway station, then a train journey,
then a car journey, and the car drops you almost to your campsite. The walk
would be a mere 5 minutes to your tent. and then the bag stays in the tent up
until you leave. if you are ok hauling a small suitcase and a small carry bag,
for 5-10 min you should be fine . Infact some people were carrying suitcases
which were smaller than our backpacks !
First timers guide to staying in a tent.
My first
thought s when I entered my tent was - Boy am I glad I don't suffer from
claustrophobia ! Ours was what is called a three man tent, but there is NO WAY three
grown men would be able to be comfortable in there. And in the tent were our
backpacks and, as the clothes and other paraphernalia started to unravel, the
place got smaller. Here's what I learnt from my first tent experience.
1. It gets
fairly dark in a tent. Carry a torch, or better still, carry the battery
operated lamp for 360 degree lighting unlike a torch which gives light only in
one direction. For more charm carry battery operated string of lights to hang
inside your tent. ( especially if you plan to spend quality time in your tent)
We just came came to sleep in our tents in the wee hours of the morning, not
having cozy cute tents meant we spend more time hanging around the common area
and made more friends.
2. I
wouldn't call myself particularly queemish , but , the fact that my backpack
had been lying on the floor of the train, under a sleeper class bunker during
the journey, and now lay inches away from my face - had me tossing in my sleep.
There is no way out of it, your backpack , your muddied shoes , all of it will
be within a space smaller than a queen size bed, and shall be shared by another
person and their belongings. So, I highly recommend carrying a foldable
waterproof shoe bag, in which you can pack up your shoes and keep outside the
tent ! Beware of leeches and such, so see that the shoe bag ( even a dustbin
bag works ) is closed tightly. For the backpack too you can cover with a sheet,
to cordon off the area you sleep from the area that has your belongings. Having
all of it hidden behind a clean sheet will make the tent look bigger too.
Here's another suggestion - carry a one man tent, which is a really small tent,
pitch it near your tent and put ALL your belongings in there !
3. Keep your
tent dry at all times ! it really rains a lot at Ziro during the music festival
time. having foliage or undergrowth around our tent kept the ground really dry
around our tent ( unlike other campsites) something like pine needles and
bamboo don’t absorb water and keep the area really dry , apparently it’s
because they are are taxonomically grass , was what one of the veteran campers
explained). Just lay down some foliage around your tent.
acting all boss babe outside our tent, when in actual, I really dont think I can repeat this 'once in a life time experience'. |
First timers guide to Ziro.
The neighbouring
villages and town is a treat to walk around.
We went on a
Village walk and it was the most magical day.
We walked
through golden paddy fields, fringed with dark green pines , topped with purple
hills in the background and a sky which was a pantone cerulean. And it was all
around, 360 degrees , no picture can do it justice, not even Panoramas. And
then it started to drizzle, and the clouds came down. Stunningly beautiful
!
We went to
the home of an Apatani tribal woman. I think my happy vibes rubbed off on her
and she wanted me to sing with her. We sang Lucky Ali's Oh Sanam , since Lucky
Ali would be performing later that evening at the Music festival.
Don’t forget
to visit the weekly market, which happens only on a Saturday , where vendors
from neighboring villages come set shop for a day.
They also
have fishing in paddy fields tours but I didn't want to need to have a bath, so
avoided that. Also bicycle rides and ATB rides from town .
They have
some beautiful view points and even a lake with Boating nearby.
The walk through the fields in the rain is surreal |
Simple , but so hospitable. The Apatani village woman even gifted me a pumpkin as a gift. |
a slight 6 km detour, took us to the lovely sico lake. |
Boating at Sico lake. |
First timers Guide to Ziro Music Fest
So, there
were two things on my mind – What do I wear ? and What do I get to eat ?
So, every
one will insist on gum boots, because the rains get fairly mucky (We even made
up a muck grading system from 1 t0 10, humour helps when you are slipping and
sliding through water logged mud ). So, boots. The most comfortable ones were
the Decathlon ones , is what I found out from all ziro goers. I ofcourse spray
painted mine , and then stuck stickers on them for added measure. The paint
didn’t dry completely, so I stuck some of the foliage from around my tent
aswell. You can buy boots at the town near Ziro as well, or an Amazon ( as I
did ) but, decathlon ones were the best, according to everyone.
Because the
boots keep your feet cozy, you can easily wear shorts /skirts , without feeling
cold. Carry a shrug/ jacket for later in the evening.
Here I’d
like to add a word about the locals – who are absolute fashionistas. They would
beat any Instagramming fashion blogger hollow with their sense of style. Think
neon pants with Aubergine crossbacks with matching hair, or Maroon sundress
with tan coloured boots, even the girl at the help desk wore a white faux fur
lined jacket, and olive green pants. These girls were dancing and jumping heels!
Such an inspiration.
Boys, get a nice jacket, a colourful muffler (both to wear
and to share ), glow in the dark tees with funky messages (always conversation
starters).
Now, the food . First
timers guide to eating snails, silkworms, frogs and grasshoppers.
First off, let me tell you, that I am all about bio
diversity and conservation of nature, I wear Ahimsa saris which are silk saris
made with cultured silkworms treated humanely. And, I would never have frogs in
Goa (where it is endangered and Government protected, I have tons of posts on
NOT eating Jumping chicken in Goa !), but, when in the North East , do as the
North East. Let’s start with snails, escargot is fairly popular the world
round, we had the ones freshly caught from the paddy fields, by our own
campers, so major foraging points there, also talk about farm to table ! They
taste a lot like Tisryo, the mussels I had for the first time in Goa, bit
chewy. Next up, silkworms, they were my favourite, they taste like the yolks of
hard boiled eggs, not the over boiled crumbly variety, but the really nice
flavourful , creamy and yet firm egg yolks. Delish! Frogs then, umm, the
variety we had were fried to a crisp, and they honestly tasted like nothing,
but texturally were just like potato chips, they should have just sprinkled
them with some sour cream and onion flavouring, or even chaat masala.
Grasshoppers, and what a joy these were. We were actually asked if we wanted to
eat them live! Hilarious! Nervous laughs all around, but what’s life without a
little adventure. So, while most of the grasshoppers were deep fried, sprinkled
with chatpata masala, and served with a side of an amazing smashed green chilli
chutney , some of the grasshoppers were tried while they could still move. As
the locals explained, they were not actually fully alive, because it’s not like
they could hop off your plate, but they moved their legs around. It sounds like
something out of fear factor, it felt like something out of fear factor. I had
it, and I couldn’t get myself to chew fast enough, so that I don’t feel moving
legs in my mouth.
Ah, moving on. Yes, there is normal food for the less
adventurous. There was even a Korean food counter – Mahsitssoya, Khamsamida ! I
practiced my Hangul. The roadside stalls and multiple restaurants along the
path from camp to festival grounds were a treat aswell.
Apong; the fermented rice wine, served in hollowed bamboo glasses. We had so many, it was almosta water substitute. |
sun dried and fried frogs. |
nothing like paratha and pickle in the hills. campsite food was excellent . experience destination |
BBQ pork, served witha a side of Apong |
live and fried grasshoppers |
silkworms |
chole bhature , campsite food . |
lots and lots of momos |
snails |
First timers guide to
leaving your kid at home.
Up until now, I have always been a mom travel blogger, I
travel everywhere with my kid. I believe, every place is child-friendly, they
may not be parent friendly! As in, it’s fun for kids everywhere, but it’s us
parents who can’t handle kids in certain dangerous places. So, here’s what I
did to assuage my mom guilt. I left 7 surprise gifts for him, for the 7 days I
wouldn’t be there. Simple gifts, from tiffin snacks, to things he could share
with his friends. He also enjoyed painting and decorating my boots, and was
very proud when I sent him pictures of me wearing the boots. Also, I tried to
take videos which I thought he would enjoy, like camping tent ( thankyou peppa
pig), hot air balloon, wriggly worms etc, and sent them whenever there was
internet. Do not promise that you will call at a particular time, network is
patchy, and you don’t want to break a promise you made. When I returned, his
first words when he saw me were “ Mama I got Boo Boo ( hurt ) and showed me the
scratch on his feet. “ , I replied with “ mama got Boo Boo too” and showed him
my blisters and leech marks on my feet. That thrilled him to bits , if you have
boys, they will LOVE it! For the next three days he put bandaid on every
blister and leech mark. He never once complained about me not being there. Kids,
they really are troopers. So, mama, don’t feel guilty for having the time of
your life.
the famous yellow boots. Someone actually asked me if they were Thanos' boots. Infinity boots ? |
Now, for the last
bit- the MUSIC.
I know you are thinking, 2000 words in, she is writing about
a music festival, and no word on the music. It’s because I wanted to keep the best for the last. I think,
the one thing that most influenced me about ziro was that I came back with a
whole new playlist of songs I listen to now. There was music everywhere, and
all the time. Eclectic bands playing everything from Classical Indian, to indigenious
musical instrumentals, to psychedelic trance, to genres I had never heard
before, bands from Japan , Korea and Lithuania, and then you had the campers
having impromptu gigs into the wee hours of the morning, and then mornings when
campers would plug in their playlist on the speakers. May be I was in a
particularly receptive state, but the universe seemed to speak to me through
the music during this trip. And that’s my one tip, keep an open mind. Listen to
every genre. I went back and googled most of the artists, and now follow many of
their music on spotify, and we are even dancing for a wedding sangeet to one of
the Indie bands I heard at the festival. It completely depends on you, how much
you take from an experience, just like in life. I was impressed by all the
musicians who sang and played their own musical instruments at the camp, so if
you do, carry your harmonica, guitar, mandolin.
Seeing my increased interest in Music, my Instagram algorithm suggested I
buy a Kalimba, an African musical instrument. Instagram , had suggested I go
for Ziro music festival, I think that was a good suggestion, so I went ahead
and bought a Kalimba. It’s on its way!
if you wish to read more ( and there's a lot more - find my hashtag on insta #foodietrailstonortheast )
if you wish to read more ( and there's a lot more - find my hashtag on insta #foodietrailstonortheast )