Kumartuli , the potters precinct in North Kolkata is where
the Gods and Goddesses are created. We all know that Ma Durga comes from Mount
Kailash, but it is here in the narrow lanes of Kumartuli, and at the hands of
the potters whose last names are ‘pal’ is where she takes shape.
Images of half painted Ma Durgas and potters hands deftly
carving out the Goddesses eyes , were images I had often seen and admired on
social media as well as magazines. The potters at Kumartuli not only make the
idols for the city of Kolkata , but also export the idols to durga Pujos around
the world, from Australia to USA, and even to Dubai, almost every NRI Bengali
pujo gets its Pujo Protima from Kumartuli.
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come , join me on a walk through Kumartuli |
But, the idols of Ma Durga and her children
are made before Durga pujo, so is it still worth while visiting Kumartuli once
Durga pujo has begun?
Yes, it is ! Read on to find out how we saw the creators,
the craft and the creation , all at Kumartulli, this Durga Pujo.
A brief history of
Kumartulli
After the british colonisation of Bengal and India, in 1757
after the Battle of Plassey , Holwell, under the oeders from Directors of the
British East India Company, allotted separate districts to the company’s
workmen. Thus, suriparah – place of wine
sellers, chuttarparah – place of carpenters, Coomartolly – place for potters.
It is this Coomartolly that later became kumartuli or kumartulli.
Mostt of the artisans and workers from these districts
dwindled or vanished with the rise of the Marwari settlements and the coming in
of Burrabazar. Except for the potters. The potters, who up until then were
making clay pots and pans using the clay from the river bed of Hooghly , took
to making the idols of Gods and Goddesses for the neighbouring mansions around
Kumartulii.
Kumartulli was home to a number of renoened homes during the
Bengal renaissance, like Nandram Sen the first collector of Kolkata in 1700,
and Gobindram Mitter who had a sprawling house spread over 16 acres.
What you can expect
to see at Kumartuli during Durga Pujo
While it is true that Kumartuli is most famous for the
Pratimas and the pandals they create for Durga Pujo, they also make the
protimas of Lakshmi for Lakshmi Puja which is celebrated in West Bengal 7 days
after Saptami. And so you will see half finished idols of Lakshmi, or even
completely dressed and decked idols of Lakhsmi depending on which day of Durga
Pujo you visit Kumartuli.
We also saw the beginnings of the making of Ma Kali, for the
Kali pujo which would be on the night of Diwali. The dynamic Ma Kali idol,
complete with a garland of beheaded heads, and a hand dangling around her waist
make for eyecatching visuals.
You can also see the artists and workers hard att work, or
just catching a siesta . A peep into their world and you see the simple life
they lead, among their creations, a two storey house being held up by a half
finished idol, or the remnants of discarded pratimas, which didn’t make the cut
to the standards of perfection these Kumars put their work to.
Apart from this , Kumartuli, as I said is home to some of
the old world rich Bengalis, and just a walk down the many lanes of Kumartuli
gives you a glimpse of the glory of yesteryears, the aristocratic charm of
Kolkata is best seen here , as the homes are still well preserved . we didn’t
have much time to explore because the place is teeming with people, but there
are so many lanes and roads and narrow passage ways in this place that it is
easy to lose yourself here.
The residents of Kumartulli make idols for the entire city,
and for most of the pujos around the world, so you can imagine the idols that
their own pujo pandals would have.
How to get to
Kumartuli
We went by our own car, but taking a taxi or Uber/Ola is the
best way since parking is a hassle during the crowded days of pujo. Otherwise,
buses and trains go to Kumartuli. The nearest railway station is the Sovabazar
Metro. Sovabazar Launch Ghat (alongside the Ganges river) is also close by.
Taking a walk to the riverbank is worthwhile, as you'll get to see old Gothic
& Victorian style mansions. From there you can get a boat back to central
Kolkata. You don’t need special passes to go there, but its best you respect
the people who live and work there,so if they ask not to take pictures, don’t.
the place was surprisingly clean when we went.
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Kumartuli , a unique experience during Durga Pujo |
A unique experience
The chaos and cacophony is an integral part of Durga Pujo in Kolkata, but once in Kumartuli, we took a left, and then a sharp right behind a house, and all of a sudden were trasnsported to an ethereal world; where Gods and their creations, idols and their creators lived. It’s quiet here, so quiet that some of the potters were sleeping. While in the pandals we were all jostling for space, here in the potters lanes of Kumartuli we were the only family. The feeling that this is where it all begins, the planning and creation of the idols, for Saraswati puja, for Lakshmi Puja, for Gurga puja and Kali puja, is truly an other worldly experience.
Just outside of the pujo pandal are food stalls selling everything a Bengali foodies heart desires . the foodietrails couldnt end a travel blog post without mentioning food :)
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kolkata meetha paan ; must have the foodietrails recommends |
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phuchka , must have kolkata street food. the foodietrails recommends |
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cheene badam , peanuts dry roasted over sand. kolkata street food must have |
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mutton biryani, with a side of potato. kolkata street food must have |
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egg chicken roll, must have kolkata street food. the foodietrails recommends |
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chowmein and kochuri, must have street food in Kolkata. the foodietrails recommends.
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