When a famous celebrity chef opens her flagship restaurant
in your tiny state, you as a foodie are excited at the prospect, and when Chef
Ritu Dalmia opens her famous Diva line of Italian restaurants for the first
time outside Delhi after famously stating once that she would never open a Diva
restaurant outside of Delhi , you are positively thrilled.
Diva restaurant , Goa |
Chef Ritu Dalmia’s reason for opening Diva in Goa is because
she loves Goa, but as a foodie I think she made a very good choice. with a
number of good Italian home style restaurants, regional cuisines of Italy being
highlighted as well as Italian chefs in starred restaurants who bring their
Nonna’s recipes with them , Goa has been exposed to world class Italian cuisine
, and would receive Diva with open arms.
Diva restaurant is located in a new-ish resort in North Goa,
called Andores resort, in Tivai Waddo Calangute. A verdant green property
fringed with palms, the restaurant itself is by the swimming pool and the large
glass windows allow natural light to stream in.
Chef Dalmia , who incidentally also has a restaurant in
Milan called ‘Cittamani’ which serves Innovative Indian cuisine using Italian
ingredients also has influences of Goa, and her Delhi restaurant Diva spiced
has uses of Kokum and Coconut. While these may not be part of an Italian
cooking , Chef has been known to incorporate fresh local ingredients true to
the season in her menus, and that’s what I am most looking forward to.
The tasting menu in true Italian style, started with an
antipasti,went on to the first course a primi, and a second course secondi and
then desserts, also how can we forget pizzas!
For the Anti Pasti, we had a refreshing tartare of cubed
beetroots and green apple with a zingy lime mustard dressing, as well as a more
subtle prawn salad with graceful fennel shavings and orange segments. I think
this course set Diva apart instantly. Each mini cube of beetroot and apple were
painstakingly sliced and similar across all the plates, the flavour
combinations as well as the precision knife work were both impeccable.
Then came the Pasta dishes. For the vegetarians there was a
mozarella filled gnocchi, tossed in a simple marinare style sauce. I liked it,
but thought the mozzarella filling converted the traditional bite sized gnocchi
to more of a mouthful. I personally like my gnocchi smaller and more swimming
in sauce . To read about my three favourite Pasta meals from my trip to Rome READ HERE.
But, the minced lamb Ravioli stole my heart! As a rule,
whenever I visit an Italian restaurant, I order ravioli. Why? Because that’s
when you know if they make their own in house pasta , at least in India. There is
so much more complexity and technique required in making raviloli, like the
stuffing, the pasta rolling itself and the sauce, and at Diva the spiced lamb
with a onion and rosemary infused puree was sublime. I didn’t check the menu,
but if they make tortellini’s then that’s what I will have next time, because
those too really judge the depth of creativity and precision of a Italian
restaurant.
The secondi, or what is considered the Maincourse was potato
roulades with a grilled veggies, and beaten chicken breast with lime and
peppercorn and baby roast potatoes. I wasn’t very impressed by the
presentation, nor the flavours. To be fair, these were tasting portions and I
wouldn’t judge plating on such small portions, a valiant effort with the
painted stroke of beetroot sauce on the side. I agree it added drama, but my
chicken was dry and I was scraping the beetroot sauce for some relief. My
favourite parts were the grilled baby potatoes and the onion segments. It
needed more of the dipping sauce or a jus.
grilled chicken, Diva restaurant Goa |
Diva restaurant, Goa |
Now for what you have been waiting for , the Pizza. We were
served four classic combinations, the Margherita (Chef Dalmia’s favourite
choice), Verde with pesto, pine nuts, fresh rocket leaves and moxarella ( my
favourite and highly recommended), Sabine with salami red peppers and red
onions ( the most photogenic and also for those who enjoy spicy pizza) and the Cotto with cooked ham, olives mozzarella and parmesan (this one was a meat
lovers paradise, generous helping of ham on the pizza).
Yes, the pizza is
decidedly good here, but don’t take my word for it, Diva was chosen among the
70 best restaurants with a pizzeria in the world, and the jury consisted of
Italian embassies around the world and the restorazione Italiana Magazine.
And now for the desserts. I can hear you guys saying “Basta
Basta !” I can’t take it anymore, but I promise this is the last for now.
One of the best chocolate torte, it was a miracle how
something so crumbly and moist could hold its shape on the plate, because on
the tongue it melted into a gooey mess of chocolatey flavours. The Tiramisu
valiantly held its own against the scene stealer torte. Diminutive in a shot
glass, it still managed to pack a punch with the amount of coffee that it had,
it is deceptively benign looking but delivers on taste.
Pasta Art , Aradhana Seth for Diva , Goa |
Can you guess the various Pasta patterns ? Art by Aradhana Seth, for Diva restaurant Goa |
Apart from the food, I was also taken up by the eclectic
artwork in the place, done by Aradhana Seth, with the use of black and white
abstract images to depict pastas of various shapes, and using an old Italian
magazine to create mosaic art along with dry pasta , as well as geometric
patterns to depict herbs and spices. The creativity had clearly emanated from
the kitchens to the walls.
Head to Diva restaurant now open in Goa, situated in
Calangute, open all 7 days of the week, for lunch and dinner during the monsoon
season of Goa ( which is now) and soon have more hours of service come next
tourist season. It’s a bit tricky to find, but put Andores resort or Diva
restaurant on google and you should be fine. Indoor seating with pretty
surroundings are a bonus, parking is present in the resort itself.
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