One of the most frequented places in India, and home to one of
the most famous monuments in the world, Agra and is on everyone's bucket list.
Yet it was difficult for me to find a really comprehensive food guide to Agra!
Part of the Golden triangle of Delhi and Jaipur, imagine the delicious triangle
of food, the Rajputana royalty of Jaipur, the Mughal rich culture of Agra and
the powerful draw of the capital state of Delhi, wow lip smacking journey. But
whereas much has been said and written about Delhi and Jaipur, Agra still
remains much of a foodies enigma. Thousands of tourists visit Agra EVERYDAY,
this food journey to Agra and one of the wonders of the world is a journey
worth taking.
The Taj Mahal is a study in symmetry, its almost ascetic and
austere in it’s beauty. White and unadorned, its gems stolen by previous
invaders, it almost glows with a light of its own. With its high domes, tall
minarets and many manicured gardens it commands awe. The carvings on the wall,
the intricate designs and the many optical illusions explained by our guide, do
not distract from the fact that this is a tomb of a king and his wife. The Taj
Mahal is in stark contrast to Agra city itself, where the Taj is white and
stark, Agra revels in its multi hues and chaos.
The anarchy and chaotic streets, are very much like the
sweet jalebis sold on the streets of Agra. The preferred morning breakfast is
that of deep fried fritters called kachori, which are savoury and can be
enjoyed with potatoes or any other savoury curry, and curd. To balance this
savory meal is the deep fried fritters, dipped in sugar syrup called jalebis.
When I told Pawan, my husband that this was what the locals had for breakfast,
he balked at the idea of having so much unhealthy cholesterol, so early in the
morning, and actually questioned my research. But I knew it was true, because
even in Calcutta, we have kochuri and jalebi for breakfast, yes with the potato
curry too, its sold in little bowls made of dry leaves stiched together with
dry branches, and yes even though it sounds exotic, it reminds me of my
childhood, and summer vacations in kailash bose street. So in memory of my childhood
breakfast we ate at GMB sweet shop and the kachorui and jalebi was nice but
nothing great. Then on our way to the Taj mahal, we saw a street vendor making
fresh hot jalebis right on the road! They were undoubtedly the best food in
Agra, people come here for the Pethas, but Jalebis are irrefutably the national
dessert of India. Rich, unabashedly sweet, crisp as well as soft at the same
time and a shape difficult to describe, and no matter how much you try you
really cannot get the sticky syrup of your fingers, truly India.
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| fried to perfection, Garam Jalebis |
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| Jalebi and Kachori, the balanced breakfast |
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| food tastes better when eating off the streets! |
But ofcourse when in Agra, you must partake of Pethas. Petha
is…. And like many things in Agra, there are many duplicates of the original.
Panchhi petha is the original, but then every where you turn , every shop reads
panchhi petha. Our friendly auto rickshaw driver gave us a helpful tip to spot
the authentic one. Look at the small print above the board that says panchhi
petha, most of the copy cats will have small prefixes, like new panchhi petha, or national, or best panchi petha . So where is the ‘real’ panchi petha?? They have
a branch in sadar bazaar, the local shopping street, its under hotel Pawan.
It’s a well hidden secret, and now you know it. The problem is that so many
touts are trying to cheat you in Agra that you can never be too careful. Having
said that, the not so authentic pethas, were good to eat too, but I am no great
fan of Petha, and if you are going to have just one, you might as well have the
best, right?
Our travels took us to fatehpur sikri and having tasted such
excellent tea, we were mighty excited to see the famous Kulhad or earthen pots
in which tea is supposed to taste even better. It didn’t . The tea tasted
mildly of mud and a bit grimy. The earthen pots had been by a busy highway
street and all the dust and traffic smoke must have got coated on the pots .
Ofcourse we should have asked for the pots to be washed but, I guess we live
and learn and I’m just glad the stomach growling stopped by next morning . Just
goes to show that enthusiasm has to be tempered by good sense especially when
in Agra.
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| pimk pickled onions, a sure sign of north indian cuisine. YUmmmm! |
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| the hearty fare at pinch of spice,Agra |
I by no means restricted myself to the street food. We ventured
where many a tourist had ventured. We went to the highly acclaimed Pinch of
Spice, on fatehabad road and were impressed by the moist chicken, the generous
quantity of the gravies, the attentiveness of the staff. A brilliant idea was
to give us wet napkins at the beginning of the meal, because you really can’t
have butter naan with forks and knives. This place is famous for it’s buffet,
and it’s really worth the money, but a word of advice is to make prior reservations.
Sadar bazaar, is a treasure trove of little gems hidden in
its bylanes, and apart from the already mentioned panchhi petha and sai
khandelaa. Agra has it’s very own master chef in the chaat street in Sadar
bazaar. Mr Jassi was a contestant on masterchef, India! He has 4 eateries in
the chaat street, and the masterchef logo embellishes all the establishments.
The man himself is making vegetarian pasta dishes in a street stall. We had his
master chef dish of Soya Chaap, which was silken soya rolls in a spicy indian
curry. Unassuming and modest about his achievements, Mr Jassi doesn’t rest on
his laurels, infact one of the patrons told us that he not only had
participated in masterchef but had also come fourth on the show! When you ask
him, why does he still prefer to work here in a street side eatery, his mater
of fact answer is, “ there isn’t anything that the TV people can give me that I
don’t already have.”
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| A masterchef on the dtreets of Agra!! |
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| the masterchef dish of Soya chaap. |
The first impression of Agra is one of a crumbling town, living
in chaos and completely oblivious to the beauty that it has been blessed with.
Some may say it is the rustic charm of the ‘real India’, but sometimes the real
India got a bit too real. My visit to Agra left me with mixed feelings, on the
one hand I loved the unpretentious and earthiness of the food and the people
here, while the sheer disregard of the people for their heritage and the
unscrupulous treatment of unassuming tourists left a bitter taste in the mouth.
To say that Agra is stuck in the past would be a travesty ,
because just a few short centuries ago they had built awe inspiring monuments ,
cities famed for their architectural beauty as well as cunning designs such as
hidden doors,and secret passageways,methods of air conditioning entire hallways
in the absence of electricity and gardens with bubbling fountains in the
absence of motors. The sheer ingenious designs of the Mughals leaves one
awestruck also a bit sad. To think that a mere 350 years back Agra had been a
cynosure of such adoration and today the citizens and the government are so
unmindful of the decline. It had once been the capital of undivided India, and
today it might not find itself in the top 20 cities in the country.
Rabindranath tagore once said that the Tajmahal is like a tear drop on the
cheek of time, and truly when you look at the beautifully manicured gardens of
TajMahal highlighting the gleaming Marble palace, contrasted against the rest
of Agra, it does make you tear up. Agra deserves so much more, more attention ,
and care. This place has seen the height of luxury, and as you walk the roads
inside the Agra fort, and see the gleaming gem stones inlayed on marble, you
get a glimpse into the past.
